Fill Dirt Calculator
Cubic yards of fill dirt to raise a grade, level a yard or backfill — with settling allowed for.
How the calculation works
Fill dirt is the material you buy when the problem is elevation rather than growing: subsoil, unscreened, bought to raise a grade, level a yard, backfill against a foundation or close a low spot that holds water. The arithmetic is area × depth ÷ 27, and the number that matters most is the settling allowance on top — 20–30%, higher than any other material on this site, because unscreened fill has large irregular voids that keep closing for months after delivery.
Fill dirt is not topsoil, and the difference is the whole point
Fill is subsoil — clay, sand and rock below the growing layer, with the organic content absent. That is a feature: organic matter decomposes and keeps settling, which is exactly what you do not want under a patio or against a foundation. Fill holds a grade. Topsoil grows things. A raised lawn is fill dirt with 4–6 inches of topsoil capped over it, and ordering one when you needed the other is the most expensive mistake on this page.
Why the settling allowance is so large
Screened materials arrive with consistent particle sizes and modest voids. Unscreened fill arrives as clods, mixed sizes and air. Dumped and raked, it can lose a quarter of its height over a season of rain. Machine-compacted in 6–8 inch lifts it settles once, properly, on your schedule instead of afterwards — which is why every structural fill spec is written in lifts.
Clean fill, and what turns up in the cheap loads
“Clean fill” means soil and rock with no organic debris, no rubble, no contamination. Free or near-free loads from excavation contractors are often clean and perfectly good — the contractor is paying to dispose of it either way. But they can also carry roots, broken concrete, or heavy clay that holds water. Look at the pile before it is on your driveway, and ask where it came from.
Backfill has rules of its own
Against a foundation wall, fill goes back in lifts with drainage stone at the footing and the grade sloped away from the building. Never backfill against a fresh basement wall before the floor and first-floor framing brace it — walls have been pushed in by a machine placing fill too early. And keep the final grade at least 6 inches below any siding or sill plate.
What it costs
Fill dirt runs $8–$20 per cubic yard delivered in 2026 — the cheapest bulk material most yards handle, and frequently free if you can take a full load and accept it unscreened. Delivery is the real cost on small orders.
The free-fill economics
Excavation contractors pay tipping fees to dump spoil, so a homeowner wanting 15 yards is doing them a favour. Search local listings, or ask at any site with an open excavation. You are trading money for control: free fill arrives as whatever came out of that hole. For grade under a lawn, that is usually fine.
Spreading and compacting
A skid-steer with an operator runs $250–$400 a day and turns a two-weekend wheelbarrow job into an afternoon. A plate compactor ($60–$100/day) handles lifts on small areas; larger fills want a jumping jack or a roller. Compaction is not optional on anything a structure or paving will sit on.
Do not forget the topsoil line
Almost every fill job needs a topsoil cap, and topsoil costs two to three times as much per yard. Budget both together: 6 inches of fill plus 4 inches of topsoil over 600 ft² is roughly $208 of fill and $330 of topsoil at typical prices.
Common mistakes
Using fill dirt where topsoil belongs
Grass on subsoil is thin, yellow and permanently disappointing. Fill raises the level; the top 4–6 inches must be topsoil for anything to grow. Two orders, two materials.
Dumping instead of lifting
Fill placed in one deep pile compacts only at the top. Six to eight inch lifts with compaction between them is what makes a grade hold — otherwise it keeps sinking for a year and takes your new patio with it.
Grading toward the house
The point of most fill is drainage, and it is easy to end up with a beautifully level surface that sends water at the foundation. Slope away from the building — about a quarter inch per foot for at least the first 6 feet.
Burying the siding
Raising grade against a wall is how water gets behind cladding and how termites get an unguarded route in. Keep the finished grade at least 6 inches below siding and sill plates, even if it means a retaining edge.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between fill dirt and topsoil?
Fill dirt is subsoil — the layer below the growing zone, with organic matter screened out or simply absent. It is structural: it holds a grade without decomposing or settling further. Topsoil is the living layer plants root in. Fill raises the level; topsoil goes on top of it, 4–6 inches deep.
How much does a yard of fill dirt weigh?
About 2,500 lb — 1.25 US tons — dry. Wet clay fill can pass 3,000 lb per yard, which is why loads are limited by weight rather than volume and why a pickup carries only about one yard safely.
How much should I add for settling?
20–30% for unscreened fill placed loose, and that is not optional — fill settles more than any other material because the voids are larger and irregular. Machine-compacting in 6–8 inch lifts is what gets a grade to hold; dumped and raked fill keeps sinking for a year or more.
Can I get fill dirt for free?
Often, yes. Excavation contractors pay to dispose of it, so many will deliver clean fill free or for the haul cost alone — check local listings and ask nearby construction sites. The tradeoff is that free fill is unscreened and may carry rubble, roots or clay you did not want.